Development of a new skin-healing product based on an ecobiological approach

During the healing process, a cream is often used to help repair the skin, reduce feelings of discomfort, and prevent pigmented scarring. In this context, various studies were carried out to assess the healing effect of a new dermocosmetic product based on the ecobiological approach, which considers the skin as a living ecosystem that interacts with its internal and external environment, and whose natural biology must be protected. This approach is based on the study of biological targets involved in wound healing, and on clinical studies. One in vitro study, four experimental studies and two clinical studies were carried out.

The first study, carried out with a new model of damaged reconstructed human skin, demonstrated the beneficial effect of repairing active ingredients (polyglutamic acid, hyaluronic acid, xylose) on the healing process, including re-epithelialisation (Ki67), the speed of wound closure (D7 91% vs. 48% for untreated skin) and the quality of healing (loricrin, fibronectin, type XVII collagen). Two experimental studies demonstrated the protective restructuring effect on the skin’s barrier function, each in 10 subjects, with a significant improvement in TEWL vs. the untreated area after application of blotting paper (20.9%) and after rubbing (11.7%). Another study showed the breathable effect without modifying transcutaneous O2 and CO2 partial pressure as measured by a radiometer. The 4^th metagenomics study carried out on 20 subjects and focusing on the cutaneous microbiome, which plays an important role in wound healing as it is at the interface between the skin and the external environment, showed restoration of the diversity of the cutaneous microbiome (Shannon index) as early as 3 hours after disinfection, with loss of diversity persisting in the untreated area. The two clinical studies (application twice a day, 14 days), of which one was non-comparative in 21 subjects after fractionated CO2 laser therapy and the other was carried out on half of the face vs. a placebo in 22 subjects after a peeling treatment (glycolic acid 70%), showed a significant reduction in the overall scar score (three sub-scores: inflammation, scar appearance, soothing effect) with the product after laser therapy on D7 (-63%) and D14 (-96%), and after peeling treatment vs. a placebo on D3 (-56% vs -32%) and D7 (-81% vs -55%), compared with D0. A reduction in TEWL and an acidic pH close to the physiological pH of the skin were obtained as early as D1 after the peeling treatment (absent with the placebo). In the two clinical studies, the product was very well tolerated.

In conclusion, this new skin-healing product, designed with an ecobiological approach, demonstrates significant activity on natural healing processes; it respects the skin’s ecosystem (microbiome) without inducing pigmentation.

H. Polena¹, S. Callejon^1,2, Félix Giraud^1,2, E. Abric¹, M. Salvert¹, F. Larue¹, S. Thach^1,2, M. Chavagnac¹, N. Ardiet¹, S. Trompezinki^1,2, M. Sayag¹, C. Graizeau^1,2 and B. Dréno³

¹NAOS Ecobiology Company (Bioderma – Institut Esthederm – Etat Pur), R&D Department, Aix-en-Provence, France

²NAOS Institute of Life Science, Aix-en-Provence, France

³Nantes Université, INSERM, CNRS, Immunology and New Concepts in ImmunoTherapy, INCIT, UMR 1302/EMR6001 F-44000 Nantes, France

Helena Polena¹, Sylvie Callejon^1,2, Félix Giraud^1,2, Elise Abric¹, Marie Salvert¹, Florence Larue¹, Eloïse Marty¹, Marlène Chavagnac¹, Nathalie Ardiet¹, Sandra Trompezinki^1,2, Michèle Sayag¹, Christelle Graizeau^1,2 and Brigitte Dréno³

¹NAOS Ecobiology Company (Bioderma), Research and Development Department, Aix-en-Provence, France

²NAOS Institute of Life Science, Aix-en-Provence, France

³Nantes University, INSERM, CNRS, Immunology and New Concepts in ImmunoTherapy, INCIT, UMR 1302/EMR6001 F-44000 Nantes, France