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Efficacy of a new well-tolerated dermo-cosmetic complex for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and solar lentigo spots
Efficacy of a new well-tolerated dermo-cosmetic complex for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and solar lentigo spots
Fauger A.1, Teme B.1,2, Callejon S.1,2, Fontbonne A.1,2, Weber S1,2, Cadars B.1,2, Scalia J.1,2, Graizeau C. 1,2, Trompezinski S.1,2 and Sayag M.1
1NAOS, Research and Development Department, Aix-en-Provence, France
2NAOS Institute of Life Science, Aix-en-Provence, France
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The conventional dermatological treatment for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) or solar lentigo is the Kligman's trio. However, it induces several skin adverse reactions, and consequently cannot be used more than four consecutive months, and relapse may appear afterwards.
The aim was to develop a dermo-cosmetic complex for hyperpigmented spots that can be used all year, without any side effect.
Melanogenesis was assessed in tubo via tyrosinase activity with the active complex Andrographis paniculata leaf extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract (GB), and azelaic acid. The inflammation was evaluated in vitro via PGE2 secretion by keratinocytes pre-treated with the active complex in association with niacinamide or GB alone, before UVB/UVA or phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA) stimulation. Then, 61 subjects with mild to moderate PIH (30) or solar lentigos (31), applied for 3 months a sunscreen (morning) and the active complex with niacinamide and saccharide isomerate (evening). During the study, spots’ melanin index, global efficacy based on spots intensity/size, quality of life (DLQI questionnaire), and safety were assessed.
The active complex inhibited in tubo the tyrosinase activity by 81.7% (p<0.001), and in vitro, associated with niacinamide, inhibited the UV-induced PGE2 secretion down to 71.0% (p<0.001). GB alone decreased down to 79.7% (p<0.05) the PMA-induced PGE2 secretion. In vivo, the melanin index significantly decreased in PIH subjects from 8% to 14%, and in subjects with lentigos from 6% to 11% during the study. At D84, 70% and 42% of subjects presented an improvement in PIH and lentigos groups, respectively. After 3 months, the PIH and the lentigo panel's quality of life was improved (p<0.001). The product was well-tolerated.
By inhibiting tyrosinase activity and PGE2 secretion, this dermo-cosmetic complex is efficient in reducing PIH or lentigo spots, and can be used safety for longer duration than Kligman’s trio.
Fauger A.1, Teme B.1,2, Callejon S.1,2, Fontbonne A.1,2, Weber S1,2, Cadars B.1,2, Scalia J.1,2, Graizeau C. 1,2, Trompezinski S.1,2 and Sayag M.1
1NAOS, Research and Development Department, Aix-en-Provence, France
2NAOS Institute of Life Science, Aix-en-Provence, France
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